The Old World Beauty of Prague, The City of Spires

This week, I had the pleasure of speaking about free speech in Prague and my book,The Indispensable Right: Free Speech in an Age of Rage.” While the trip was relatively brief, I was able to venture out to see this unique city. Prague is, in a word, magical. This ancient city on the Vltava River is overwhelming in its beauty, history, and culture. It is one of my favorite places on Earth, and I hope that readers will visit Prague if they are coming to Europe. Trust me, you will leave in awe of the “City of a Hundred Spires.”

I arrived on a rainy evening and stayed in the Pytloun Old Armoury Prague, charming old hotel next to a gymnastics training center. (It was odd to pull up and see bodies flying by the three-story windows). While the rooms are old Europe (including tiny showers and no central air), the highlight is the arched dining room where they serve a terrific breakfast every morning.

The night I arrived, I went walking through the streets and found a small out-of-the-way pub for a wonderful local beer and cabbage-mushroom-sausage soup. Walking back in the dark, I passed little pubs with groups of Czechs, including a couple where small groups were singing folk songs around accordion players.

 

As many of you know from past travel blogs, I tend to take a day just walking around a city, wandering into historical sites. In Prague, it is impossible to walk more than a hundred feet without stumbling upon historic sites. It is the ideal walking city. It is clean and I never had the slightest concern about crime during the day or the night. Unlike many cities heavily damaged in World War II, much of the old architecture survived in Prague, including the famed Jewish section.

The Czechs have a respect for history and lovingly preserve these buildings. To put it simply, if it is Baroque, why fix it?

You will actually find a wonderful mix of Baroque, Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture – a reflection of the fact that Prague was not only a global hub, but, at one time, the capital of the Kingdom of Bohemia. It was also the home of Holy Roman Emperors and Kings, including Charles IV and Rudolf II. It thrived under the Habsburgs and Austria-Hungary empire. It also has some of the regrettable architectural contributions of the Communist period. (There is no love for either Russia or communism in this city, as you will quickly find in any discussion of contemporary issues. These days the only invasion is by tourists, making Prague the fifth most visited city in Europe).

Any walk in Prague will inevitably take you by the glorious Charles Bridge. Originally built by King Vladislaus I in 1170, it had to be rebuilt in 1342 after it was destroyed in a flood. It offers lovely views of the city, including the distant Prague castle. One of the statues is of a saint with five stars who was thrown into the Vltava River. He would become the patron saint of sailors due to his famed death in the water (though historians have concluded that he was dead from the torture and beatings that he endured before he was tossed over the side of the Charles Bridge).

I was able to visit the Prague Castle by walking up the steep hill in the morning. It was a great choice. I beat the tourists and took the first available tour at 9 am. The castle is immense and stunning.

The Cathedral is one of the largest and oldest in Europe. (Taking the tour gives you access to the center area of the Cathedral). One of the rooms houses the national jewels, which are secured behind a door that can only be opened by seven keys. All must be used to open the door and they by tradition are held by seven office holders in the church, government and academia. If any were to lose their key, the door could not be opened.

The cathedral still has the emergence balcony from where the King and his family could cross a bridge from the royal apartments and enter the Cathedral without mingling with the commoners.

Across from Cathedral is the home and offices of the current Czech President and his staff.

After the tour, your ticket allows you to venture down the “golden street” with little dwellings, medieval shops, and even a torture chamber.

It is possible to take public transportation up to the Castle, but the steep walk allows you to see more of the lovely winding roads and buildings. It also allows you to enjoy the fanatic Czech beer and food as well as seeing such sights as the Prague astronomical clock built in 1410, the third-oldest astronomical clock in the world and the oldest one still working.

You will also find a church on every corner with soaring domes and ancient carvings and paintings.

It is impossible to do justice to the beauty and culture of Prague. You have to come and experience it yourself. Believe me, you will never forget the experience.

41 thoughts on “The Old World Beauty of Prague, The City of Spires”

  1. Prague is beautiful! I hope you got a chance to see the Kafka museum and I’ll leave a quote found painted on the wall of an alchemist’s secret basement workshop found in the jewish quarter of Prague:
    Non Pudor Est nil scire
    Pudor nil discere velle
    aurum nostrum non est
    aurum vulgi
    “There is no shame in knowing nothing, but in not wanting to learn. Our gold is not the gold of common people.”

  2. Thank you for writing such a lovely tribute to Prague. My Czech parents met in Prague and I have been fortunate to visit many times. It is the most beautiful city in Europe with wonderful music, architecture and food.

  3. Cumberland University in Tennessee just fired two professors for CK comments. I don’t know if their comments were on social media or official University websites. I’m assuming they were personal social media accounts. As I’ve stated before, I generally think these people should be protected when they voice their opinions, on personal social media, no matter how hateful. Many here disagree, saying people that teach others, including high school and college, should be held to a higher standard as educators and should be disciplined for their speech. We now have a problem because in this case students themselves led a protest against the professors. When your private remarks start to affect your job, especially as a teacher in high school or college or anywhere else, you run into a really tough question: 1) protect their free speech rights, or 2) fire them based on the unrest they are creating in the workplace. I don’t have the answer for that, but I’m leaning towards firing them was the right decision based on the workplace unrest. That’s what would happen in most public k through 12 schools. I would like the professors opinion on this one 🙏🙏🙏.

    https://www.wkrn.com/news/local-news/students-protest-cumberland-university-cuts-ties-with-employees-over-inappropriate-charlie-kirk-posts/

  4. The pictures shared are rather rich in expressing a culture and lifestyle that have been left behind. Yet, some aspects may be worth re-incorporating. Thanks for sharing.

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